🔗 Share this article

When curating a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. But, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has left the family utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small place securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.